Day 2: Wandering Through Varenna: Cobblestones, Villas, and Waterfront Dreams
- wanderingazuki
- May 27
- 12 min read
Table of Content
🌺 Introduction 🫘
"Not all those who wander are lost." – J.R.R. Tolkien
The second day of our Lake Como adventure promised a blend of exploration and relaxation. From the cobblestone streets of Varenna to the captivating gardens of its famous villas, we found ourselves immersed in the town’s timeless charm. As the day unfolded, we wandered through picturesque alleyways, savoured lakeside views, and captured unforgettable moments.
The evening brought us back to Bellagio, where we ended the day at Aperitivi Wine Bar, a spot as photogenic as it is inviting. With a glass of wine and the backdrop of Bellagio's iconic stone steps, it was the perfect way to reflect on a day filled with beauty and inspiration.
🌞 Morning Strolls: Sunrise Over Lake Como 🥐
Waking up to a quiet morning by Lake Como felt like a dream. The light shimmering on the water and the soft sounds of nature made everything feel still and peaceful—like the day hadn’t fully started yet. I actually slept well too, which doesn’t usually happen right away when I travel. The bed was big, cosy, and surprisingly comforting—exactly what I needed.
One of my favourite parts of being on holiday is breakfast—especially when it’s included. I don’t often go for a full English at home, so indulging in a hearty morning spread always feels like a treat. Plus, it saves the hassle of hunting for a café when all I want to do is ease into the day.
We headed down to the breakfast room and were immediately greeted by breath-taking views of the mountains and lake, paired with an impressive buffet. They also kindly catered to my friend’s dietary needs, which made the experience even more enjoyable. We helped ourselves to warm pastries, fresh fruit, creamy yogurt, eggs, cold cuts, cheeses, and of course, a steady flow of tea and coffee. The blood orange juice, in particular, was a standout—zesty, refreshing, and a new favourite. It was the perfect way to start the day: relaxed, full, and ready to wander.
🚘 Ferry Tales: Crossing to Varenna ⛴️
This was a big day for us—we were finally off to explore Varenna and its beautiful villas, and we couldn’t wait to get started. After getting ready, we made our way eagerly to the ferry port.
The B&B itself was lovely, but its location wasn’t the most convenient. The bus service was infrequent, and although Google Maps estimated a 30–45 minute walk into town, the route was steep, winding, and right alongside traffic—not the safest option for pedestrians. Thankfully, our host kindly offered us a ride into town, something he seems to do often given the B&B’s remote location.
Once in town, we headed to the ticket office to buy round-trip tickets to Varenna. The process was simple and quick, even with a short line. Ferries run regularly, so we didn’t have to wait long before boarding. The crossing itself took only about 15 minutes, but it was packed with breath-taking views.
As the ferry glided across the lake, the gentle rocking of the boat and the fresh breeze set a calm, almost cinematic tone for the day. The surrounding mountains and elegant lakeside villas looked even more magical from the water—like something out of a postcard. It felt like the perfect way to experience Lake Como.
Having learned from the previous evening’s transportation mishap, we gave ourselves extra time that morning. It made all the difference—we were able to buy tickets and board without any stress.
Cost Summary💰:
Returned tickets for 2 from Bellagio to Varenna - £15.79
👣 Cobblestone Charms: Strolling Through Varenna 🗺️
As we stepped off the ferry, Varenna greeted us with a storybook-like charm. Its narrow cobblestone streets, bordered by vibrant houses and blooming flowers, felt as though they had leaped right out of a postcard. Following Google Maps, we made our way to our first destination, Villa Monastero, enjoying a leisurely and scenic walk along the way.
The lakeside promenade offered breath-taking views, and we passed by La Passeggiata Degli Innamorati, aptly named the Lover’s Walk. It is known for the romantic views of Lake Como. This picturesque path was adorned with red barriers and arches, including a heart-shaped arch perfect for photo opportunities. It added a whimsical and romantic touch to an already enchanting setting.
Every turn in Varenna seemed to unveil a new treasure—whether it was a cosy café, an artisan shop brimming with handmade goods, or an unexpected vista of the glistening lake. It’s a town that invites you to slow down, soak in the beauty, and relish every moment of the experience.
🏘️ Villa Bliss: Discovering Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi 🌺
Our day in Varenna brought us to Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi, and wow—nothing could’ve prepared me for how dreamy these places were. I honestly thought we’d just be seeing a couple of big houses with nice views. But stepping into these gardens? It felt like walking into a storybook.
Villa Monastero runs right along the edge of the lake, and the gardens just seem to go on forever. Every few steps, there was something new—lemon trees, fountains, little statues tucked into corners. And the views? Absolutely unreal. We wandered slowly, soaking it all in, and taking loads of photos.
📸Photo Tip💫: Good photo spot near the entrance as soon as you walk in!
📸Photo Tip💫: There's a terraced area that feels like an open conservatory, offering stunning views of the lake and mountains (as shown above). It can get quite crowded, but it's a fantastic spot for photos.
Side Note😅: I'm no photography pro, but I’ll share what I can. I have a soft spot for scenic wide shots, so expect a lot of lake-and-mountain combos. They might look suspiciously alike... but I promise they’re all slightly different angles.😂 Bear with me!
Tip💫: Villa Monastero was noticeably busier than Villa Cipressi during our visit, so I’d recommend heading there earlier in the day to avoid the crowds.
Just next door is Villa Cipressi, and stepping in felt completely different. Way quieter. Maybe it was the time of day—we went around lunchtime—or maybe the terraced layout helped spread people out more. Either way, it was such a peaceful contrast. You start at the top and follow a winding path down through layered gardens, with every level giving you a different, equally breath-taking view of Lake Como. The tall cypress trees sway gently in the breeze, and everything feels like it's been carefully framed for a photo. Villa Cipressi is also a luxury hotel. Definitely adding that to my bucket list for next time.
We were shocked to find the “angel gates” open—it made for such a magical moment, like we were hovering above the lake.
📸Photo Tip💫: Angel gates!
After a full loop around the gardens, we returned to the angel gates, hoping to snap a few more photos. But when we got there, a group of ladies had already claimed the spot. They seemed like influencers or content creators—really working every angle and taking their time. We figured it might be a while, so we decided to walk around a bit more and come back later. To our surprise, when we returned, they were still there—and by then, a small queue had started to form. We joined the line, waiting patiently and hoping for the same courtesy in return.
When it was finally our turn, we took our time to capture the shot, but I started feeling a bit self-conscious. My friend gently reminded me that we had waited just like everyone else, and that helped ease the nerves—though it was hard to ignore the growing line and a few impatient glances.
We snapped our photos, thanked everyone for their patience, and moved on. Everyone loves a good photo, but in recent years, I’ve noticed queues at scenic spots have gotten longer, especially with social media in the mix. It’s not unusual now to wait 30 minutes—or even up to an hour—for that one perfect shot.
Note📝: I believe Villa Cipressi (maybe both) doesn’t allow baby buggies inside the gardens. I remember seeing a couple being asked to leave theirs at the side—not ideal, especially since their baby was still sleeping in it. So if you're visiting with a little one, definitely check ahead and be prepared in case you need to carry them or use a baby carrier instead.
Tip💫: We bought tickets directly at the villas, but I’ve seen online combo tickets available at a discount. Worth checking before you go!
Cost Summary💰:
2 x Villa Monastero tickets – £17.85
2 x Villa Cipressi tickets – £17.17
🍴 Lunch Break: A Meal with a View 🍝
With stomachs growling and the sun still shining bright, we set out in search of a spot that ticked two boxes: good food and even better views. Varenna isn’t short on charm, and we wandered through its little streets, peeking at menus and checking for tables before settling on Bar Nilus. Perched right by the water, it had that unbeatable lakeside setup—the kind that makes you want to linger a little longer.
But while the views were everything we hoped for, the rest of the experience turned out to be a bit more... complicated.
We arrived for a late lunch sometime between 2 and 3 PM, thinking the rush might’ve died down. Instead, we waited over 30 minutes just to get seated, and by the time we were finally shown to a table, we were firmly in hangry territory. When we saw a spot open up a little closer to the water, we asked if we could move—and were pleasantly surprised when they said yes. That little win definitely lifted our spirits a bit.
Unfortunately, the delays didn’t end there. It took ages for our order to be taken, and the whole meal felt like one long waiting game. Thankfully, the food helped win back a few points.
My vegetarian friend ordered a margherita pizza, and she was very happy with her choice. She raved about the tomato sauce—fresh, tangy, and the perfect match for the simple toppings and crust. I, on the other hand, was feeling a little more adventurous. My go-to in Italian restaurants is usually ravioli, then gnocchi, then pizza or lasagna. So when I spotted fried gnocchi on the menu, I thought, “Why not?” I don’t remember ever trying it before, and while it was crispy and packed with flavour, it definitely leaned on the heavier side. I missed the light, pillowy texture of the usual kind—and there was a lingering greasiness that made it feel more indulgent than satisfying.
Despite the long wait and service hiccups, the location almost made up for it. Sitting right by the lake, watching the boats drift by, and chatting in between bites helped ease the frustration a little. It wasn’t the perfect lunch, but it reminded us that sometimes it’s less about the food and more about the company and the view.
Tip💫: I regret not trying the dessert—it looked amazing when we saw it being brought out to other tables and is apparently a bit of a local specialty. If you go, definitely save some room for it!
Cost Summary💰:
Meal for 2 – £36.05
🚶 Afternoon Musings: Lakeside Serenity 🪻
With full bellies and the sun still high, we decided to slow things down and let Varenna work its magic. There’s something about this place that makes you want to breathe a little deeper, walk a little slower, and just be. We wandered back toward the lake, letting the gentle breeze and the soft sound of the water guide our steps.
The lakeshore really became our little sanctuary for the afternoon. The stone steps led down to the water, and every so often we’d come across a bench just begging us to sit and stay awhile. The view? Like something out of a storybook. The lake sparkled under the sun, perfectly reflecting the mountains and the pastel buildings lining the shore. Every time we looked up, it felt like we were staring at a real-life postcard.
We actually passed Lavanda del Lago a few times during our stroll—this charming little shop with baskets of dried lavender out front and the most calming scent wafting through the air. The storefront was so beautiful, we kept saying, “Let’s come back after lunch to get a photo.” It looked like the kind of place you’d find in a fairy-tale, all delicate purples and rustic charm.
But of course, when we returned later… it was closed. A small reminder that in travel (and life), it’s best to seize the moment while you can.
Tip💫: If you see a photo spot you love—take the photo. You never know if you’ll get another chance!
📷 Returning Home: Bellagio Awaits 🚌
As the sun started its slow descent, we hopped back on the ferry, watching Varenna fade behind us. The lake glowed in soft golds and pinks—one of those moments that feels like nature showing off. After a day full of scenic spots and spontaneous wanderings, the calm ferry ride was just what we needed.
Back in Bellagio, we weren’t quite ready to head straight back to the hotel. Instead, we wandered over to Aperitivi Wine Bar, nestled along one of Bellagio’s iconic stepped alleyways. This spot is a photographer’s dream—you get the sprawling stone staircase leading down through town, with the mountains and a peek of the lake framed perfectly in the background. Even if you're not stopping for a drink, it’s worth passing through for the view alone.
📸Photo Tip💫: Take a photo by the Aperitivi Wine Bar and you will be able to capture the stairs, mountain, and the lake.
Now, the bus ride home… well, let’s just say it had its own kind of entertainment. The wait wasn’t ideal. With infrequent service (even considering it was off-season), the queue steadily grew, forming one of those polite, unspoken lines. Most people respected it—but of course, there are always a few who think queues are just optional. After a bit of murmured disagreement, order was restored, and the line found its rhythm again.
Once on board, I let the driver know our destination and he checked his list before calculating the fare—€12 for the two of us. To make sure we didn’t miss our stop, we had Google Maps open, tracking our little blue dot with great concentration.
Except… we may have gotten a bit too eager. Worried we might miss it, we pressed the stop button a bit early. Then realised—oops—not our stop. As we stayed seated, the driver looked back at us in the mirror with that classic “I saw that” look. We gave a sheepish smile and a quick apology, and he thankfully let it slide.
Honestly, it wasn’t super clear when the stops were coming up. There didn’t seem to be any announcements, and the bus only stops if someone’s getting on or off, which makes it easy to second guess yourself. Definitely something to be aware of if you’re taking the bus around here.
Luckily, when we did get off, our stop was only a short three-minute walk from the hotel. After a long day of lakeside adventures, it was the perfect (and much appreciated) final stretch.
Tip💫: If the ticket machine or app doesn’t work, don’t worry—you can buy your ticket directly from the driver. And definitely track your journey on Google Maps—but maybe don’t press the stop button too early, just in case!
Cost Summary💰:
Bus ticket for 2 – €12
🌕 Day’s reflection 🫶
Day 2 in Lake Como reminded me of the joy in wandering without a strict plan—the kind of day where beauty finds you when you’re not even looking for it. From the grandeur of lakeside villas to unexpected photo queues and amusing transport hiccups, it was a gentle nudge to slow down and embrace the pace of the place.
There’s something special about Varenna. It doesn’t compete for your attention—it just quietly exists in all its elegance. We strolled through flower-filled gardens, chased lavender-scented photo ops, and laughed over small mix-ups that will no doubt become “remember when” stories. Even the less-than-perfect moments—the long lunch wait, the confusing bus system, the unspoken queue drama—somehow added to the experience rather than taking away from it.
What really surprised me was how much these villas made me feel. Somewhere between the gardens and the lake views, I was hit with this wave of nostalgia—like a part of me remembered an old dream I’d shelved away. I used to imagine one day having a place like this, where people could slow down, relax, and just feel at peace. And being there brought it all back. This was one of those quiet, unexpected moments that reminded me I want more than the 9-5 rat race. I want to create, to share, to build something of my own. It’s what nudged me to start sharing more of my travels—and maybe even take a different path entirely.
The whole day was a reminder that sometimes it’s the quiet places that make the loudest impressions, and the mishaps that make for the best stories. In the end, it wasn’t just the views or the food that made the day—it was the feeling of simply being there, soaking it all in.
🧳 Your Turn to Wander In 🧋
Have you ever visited somewhere that completely surprised you—in the best way?
What’s your ideal kind of travel day: slow and scenic or jam-packed with adventure?
Have you ever had a total food nightmare... or stumbled into an unexpected food heaven?
Would you queue up for that perfect photo, or are you more of a candid-capturer on the go?
Feel free to share your thoughts in the comments—I’d love to hear your stories and experiences!
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