Day 6: Journey to (Jeju’s) East
- wanderingazuki
- Aug 12
- 11 min read
Updated: Sep 10
Table of Content:
🌺 Introduction 🫘
"Travel is about the gorgeous feeling of teetering in the unknown." – Anthony Bourdain
After an incredible (and slightly exhausting) adventure on Jeju’s West Course the day before, my mum and I found ourselves back at the familiar meeting spot—Lotte Duty Free Jeju—bright and early for round two: the East Course tour with Trazy.
Right away, the energy felt different. This tour was noticeably busier than the West Course, with a larger group and a bit more hustle in the air. Though we had the same friendly guide as the day before, the dynamic was definitely more fast-paced and slightly more chaotic.
Still, we were excited to dive into a new side of the island. Jeju’s East Coast is known for its dramatic volcanic coastline, lush greenery, rich cultural history, and the legendary Haenyeo (women divers). While every stop on the itinerary intrigued me, I was especially looking forward to witnessing the Haenyeo show—an iconic part of Jeju’s heritage.
(Spoiler alert🔮: let’s just say... not everything went according to plan.)
🌳Jeolmul Natural Forest – A Breath of Fresh Air🍃
Our first stop was Jeolmul Natural Forest—a lush, green escape that felt worlds away from the city. Towering Japanese cedar trees lined the path, their earthy, pine-like scent gently filling the cool morning air. The moment we stepped into the forest, it felt as if we’d wandered into a scene from a fantasy drama—trees so tall they seemed to brush the sky, their trunks standing like silent guardians of an ancient woodland.
There was something almost magical about walking among them. The way the sunlight filtered through the canopy, the rustle of leaves overhead, the soft crunch beneath our feet—it created a sense of calm I didn’t realise I’d been craving. It was the kind of place that made you slow down, breathe deeply, and just be. For a moment, it didn’t feel like we were on a trip—it felt like we’d stepped into another world.
Jeolmul is one of Jeju’s more peaceful gems, known for its tranquil walking paths, crisp mountain air, and these majestic cedar groves, many of which were planted decades ago. Interestingly, the name Jeolmul means “never-drying spring,” referencing the natural spring within the forest, believed by locals to have health-boosting properties. While Jeju is famous for its volcanic landscapes and dramatic coastlines, Jeolmul offers a softer, more meditative experience—shaded, serene, and rich with quiet beauty.
It was a beautiful and grounding way to begin the day—no crowds, no rush, just tall trees and timeless stillness.
As we were leaving Jeolmul Natural Forest, we caught the cutest sight—a kindergarten school trip had just arrived. All the children were dressed in matching uniforms, walking in neat little rows and holding hands in groups of three. It was such a wholesome scene, and watching their excitement as they prepared to explore the forest made the peaceful morning feel even more heartwarming.
🛖 Seongeup Folk Village – A Glimpse into Jeju’s Past 🐖
Next, we visited Seongeup Folk Village—a well-preserved historic village that offers a glimpse into traditional Jeju life. Unlike many recreated tourist villages that can feel a bit staged, this one is still home to actual residents, giving it an authentic, lived-in charm.
As we wandered through the village, we passed thatched-roof houses built with sturdy volcanic stone walls—designed to withstand Jeju’s fierce winds. Our guide explained the cultural significance of the Dol Hareubang, the grandfather stone statues found at village entrances, believed to ward off evil spirits and offer protection. We also learned about Jeju’s unique “three-no” policy: no thieves, no beggars, and no gates—a reflection of the island’s deeply rooted values of trust, self-sufficiency, and tight-knit community living.
One unexpected delight was spotting adorable little black pigs trotting about—these native Jeju pigs are part of the island’s rural heritage. The village was also dotted with fruit trees, their branches heavy with ripening oranges and persimmons, adding pops of colour and life to the rustic stone backdrop.
While I found the history fascinating, this was one of those moments where I really wished we’d had a guide walking with us throughout. The introductory tour was helpful, but I craved more storytelling—those rich, layered tales that breathe life into the stones and streets. Still, the quiet moments of free exploration allowed us to wander at our own pace and soak in the atmosphere.
🍖Jeju Black Pork BBQ: Mouthwatering Meat and a Funny Faux Pas🥘
By midday our stomachs were rumbling, so we set out for one of Jeju’s culinary crown jewels: charcoal-grilled Jeju black pork BBQ. The island’s native black pigs are known for their tender texture, rich umami, and slightly sweet flavour—and grilled over a charcoal flame, they truly shine.
Seating was arranged in groups of four, so since it was just Mum and me, we were paired with two other travellers. While I’m usually quite open to shared meals, that day I wasn’t in the most social mood, and I’ll admit—it felt a bit awkward sharing a grill and communal plates with strangers. Mum and I were using separate ‘serving’ chopsticks for picking up food from the BBQ, and our table‑mates, bless them, quickly followed suit.
That said, the food made up for any discomfort. The pork had a delicious smoky richness, perfectly paired with an array of banchan (small Korean side dishes like kimchi, pickled vegetables, and seasoned greens). There was also a hearty vegetable bibimbap option for those craving something lighter. The portions were generous—exactly what we needed before continuing the day’s adventures.
And then came our post-lunch bathroom break—always an adventure when travelling.
The facilities were perfectly decent, but when I heard the alarm ring, I immediately thought, “That’s got to be Mum.” Sure enough, she soon emerged looking embarrassed and confessed she’d mistaken the emergency bell for the flush. Classic Mum! She quickly washed her hands and hurried out, cheeks slightly flushed. When a staff member arrived to check, we apologised and explained it was an honest mistake.
With the little crisis behind us, we hopped back on the coach, ready for our next adventure.
🌊 Gwangchigi Beach – Ocean Views and Lava Fields ☔
After lunch, we made our way to Gwangchigi Beach, a breathtaking stretch of coastline where jagged black volcanic rocks meet the sparkling turquoise waters of the sea. Unlike the soft, sandy beaches that many picture when thinking of coastal escapes, Gwangchigi offers a more rugged, dramatic beauty. The shoreline is marked by windswept lava formations, their rough textures sculpted by centuries of ocean waves and wind. Small tide pools dotted the rocks, home to curious sea creatures peeking out from their watery hideouts.
The rocks were still a bit wet from earlier rain, making them slippery underfoot. With strong winds whipping around us, we had our umbrellas out, but the gusts made balancing on the uneven stones a little tricky—and potentially dangerous. I took extra care with each step, mindful of the slippery surfaces and the sudden gusts that threatened to snatch our umbrellas away.
As we wandered along the shore, the salty breeze filled the air, carrying the faint scent of seaweed and fresh ocean spray. The rhythmic crashing of waves against the volcanic outcrops created a soothing soundtrack, calming yet energising. Looking out to sea, we caught sight of Seongsan Ilchulbong—also known as Sunrise Peak—rising proudly in the distance, its volcanic cone silhouetted against the sky and promising the next adventure on our itinerary.
The striking contrast between the dark lava rocks and the vivid blue sea made for a spectacular visual feast—and a perfect backdrop for photos. Standing there, soaking in the natural beauty and the peaceful energy of the place, it was easy to forget the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Gwangchigi Beach was an ideal spot to stretch our legs, breathe in the fresh sea air, and recharge before heading onward.
🤿 Women Diver Show – A Disappointing Rain Check 🌧️
This was the moment I had been most excited about during our East Coast tour—the legendary Haenyeo (women divers) show. These extraordinary women, some in their 70s and 80s, embody a centuries-old tradition of free-diving into the ocean without any modern breathing equipment, harvesting seafood with incredible skill and resilience. Their strength, bravery, and deep connection to the sea have earned them recognition as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Watching them dive gracefully beneath the waves, holding their breath for long periods, was meant to be the unforgettable highlight of the day.
But, as sometimes happens with nature and tradition, things didn’t go quite as planned. Due to a light drizzle and choppy sea conditions, it was deemed unsafe for the Haenyeo to perform the diving show, and it was unfortunately cancelled. While I fully understood the safety concerns—after all, these women are diving in challenging and potentially dangerous conditions—it was still a significant disappointment. I’d built up the anticipation for this moment for weeks, and the absence of the live performance left a quiet gap in the itinerary.
Instead, we were guided to the Women Diver Museum, a beautifully curated space dedicated to the history and culture of the Haenyeo. The exhibits offered a fascinating insight into their way of life—the tools they use, the skills passed down through generations, and the incredible community spirit that sustains this tradition. Photographs and personal stories brought the Haenyeo’s world to life, and I left with a deeper appreciation for their courage and resilience.
Still, I couldn’t help but feel that the museum, while informative and moving, wasn’t quite the same as witnessing the divers in action.
Tip💫: If you’re planning a trip to Jeju and the Haenyeo show is high on your list, I’d strongly recommend checking the weather and sea conditions in advance before booking. The show depends entirely on nature’s mood, so a little patience (and flexibility) goes a long way.
🏔️ Seongsan Ilchulbong – Jeju’s Iconic Sunrise Peak 🌄
Our final stop of the day was the iconic Seongsan Ilchulbong, also known as Sunrise Peak—one of Jeju’s most famous natural landmarks. This UNESCO-listed volcanic tuff cone was formed by an underwater eruption over 5,000 years ago and now stands proudly along the island’s eastern coast.
Tip💫: Known for its breathtaking panoramic views, especially at sunrise, the hike to the top is often considered a must-do for visitors to Jeju.
By this point, the day’s adventures were starting to catch up with me, and the climb ahead looked daunting. The path consisted mostly of stairs winding up the steep slope. My mum, who’s not the biggest fan of heights, turned back halfway, feeling it was best not to push her limits. I stood there for a moment, torn—do I turn back too, or do I keep going?
I’ve always found descents more difficult than climbs. I tend to go down steps slowly and cautiously, often feeling self-conscious if there are people behind me. But in that moment, I reminded myself of the challenge I’d set for my future self—to build confidence, to explore solo, to go a little further even when it feels uncomfortable. So, with that thought in mind, I pushed on.
I ended up chatting with some of my tour mates on the way up, which made the climb more enjoyable. And when I reached the summit, I was so glad I did. The sweeping views of the ocean and surrounding coastline were absolutely stunning. Even though we didn’t catch it at sunrise, the dramatic cliffs and lush greenery were still a sight to behold. I could only imagine how magical it must be in the golden glow of early morning.
I do wish I had taken more time to capture the moment with photos and videos, but knowing I’d have to navigate the steps down by myself, I didn’t want to keep the rest of the group waiting. So I began the descent—carefully and quietly proud of myself for making it to the top.
By 6 PM, we began our journey back to Jeju City. The coach ride home was quiet, with most of us dozing off after such a full day. Thankfully, we were dropped off near the Grand Hyatt, which saved us a bit of walking—a small but appreciated mercy after all those stairs!
🥟 Dinner Time: A Taste of Home with a Spicy Surprise 🌶️
After a long day of exploring, we were more than ready for a comforting meal. We debated whether to return to the lovely udon place we’d enjoyed before, but my curiosity to try something new won out. So, we wandered around the area, hoping to stumble upon a local gem. Instead of heading to a touristy spot, we found a small Chinese restaurant tucked away nearby. It felt like just the right choice—something warm, familiar, and hearty after hours on our feet.
One thing I really appreciated was the tablet ordering system, which allowed us to translate the menu into Chinese or English—super helpful when you're travelling. When I asked the staff about a particular dish, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that the owner spoke Chinese, which made communication much easier for us.
We ended up ordering a dim sum platter and a bowl of noodle soup. It was a simple but satisfying meal—the dim sum was solid, offering a nice variety of bite-sized flavours. Unfortunately, the noodle soup turned out to be far too spicy for my mum. Neither of us is particularly good at sending food back, so we just smiled through it and powered on.
Note to self: next time, don’t forget to request “not too spicy”!
Despite the unexpected heat, it was a cosy and nourishing way to end the day—a little taste of home, right in the heart of Jeju.
🍇 Snack Attack & Melona Moments 🍈
After dinner, we decided to take a little detour and wander around the local area—and that’s when we stumbled upon a Lotte supermarket I’d been trying to find since we landed in Jeju. Naturally, we ended up buying way more than we planned: loads of juicy fruits, an irresistible assortment of Korean snacks, and a melon Melona ice cream bar for me.
Side note📝: I was especially excited to spot the Melona bar because my bias from my favourite K-pop group once used it to promote a comeback album!
After such a spicy dinner, it was incredibly refreshing to cool down with sweet, juicy fruits and a creamy ice cream treat. One of the best finds? A bunch of Shine Muscat grapes—huge, crisp, and naturally sweet—honestly so much better than the grapes I usually get back in the UK. With our snack haul in tow, we made our way back to the hotel, ready to collapse into bed, satisfied and slightly amused by just how much joy a spontaneous supermarket run could bring.
🌕 Day’s reflection 🫶
The tour guide shared some insightful history during the bus ride back, but by that point, most of us were far too tired to stay awake. I found myself drifting in and out of sleep as we made our way home—grateful for the comfort of the coach.
Looking back, the tour had its fair share of highs and lows. The standout moments were definitely the scenic coastal spots, the delicious black pork BBQ, and the engaging storytelling from our guide. On the flip side, the cancellation of the Haenyeo show, the slightly rushed pace, and the sheer fatigue from back-to-back full-day tours took a bit of a toll.
If you're planning to stay in Jeju for more than a couple of days, I’d highly recommend spacing out your tours rather than cramming them in one after the other. These tours are a great way to see the island—but they are physically demanding. Our guide did mention that the itineraries are packed intentionally, as many visitors have limited time and they want to offer a taste of everything, especially with competition from other tour providers.
Would I do it again? Maybe—but next time, I’d go for a slower pace and give myself more breathing room in between. Jeju deserves it.
🧳Your Turn to Wander In 🧋
Have you ever joined a packed group tour while travelling? What did you love (or not love) about it?
What’s your ideal travel pace—slow and steady, or see-it-all-in-a-day?Would you brave the early wake-up call to hike Seongsan Ilchulbong for sunrise?
Have you ever tried Jeju black pork BBQ or seen Haenyeo divers in action?
Have you ever had to send food back at a restaurant? Did you do it—and do you have any tips for handling it politely?
What kind of travel day drains you the most—and how do you recharge after?
Feel free to share your thoughts in the comments—I’d love to hear your stories and experiences!